It feels like a Disappearing 9-Patch -a-palooza over here lately. Using the free pattern to feature 10″ square precuts (layer cakes), I whipped up this queen size quilt (75″ x 90″) in a weekend. It really is that easy.
The pattern calls for:
- 1 Layer Cake (40 pieces of precut 10″ squares)
- 2-1/3 yard white/background fabric
Ok. I have those supplies. Er, but wait. No. I didn’t have them.
Instead I used a 10″ square ruler to basically cut my own 40 squares from assorted blue and red fabrics. Here’s how that math breaks out:
- 1/3 yard of FIVE different reds
- 1/3 yard of FIVE different blues
Cut the pieces down to 10″ x width of fabric. (If you are buying fabric for this project, I’d go with 1/3 yard, just to be sure you have a bit of wiggle room if the cuts aren’t square. And, if they are square- voila! You’ll have 3″ leftover to make matching binding for your quilt.)
From each 10″ wide piece, cut four 10″ x 10″ squares, which will yield 20 reds and 20 blues. Easy, right? We needed a total of 40 so that is right on pace.
Cut the background fabric as described in the original pattern and follow the original directions from here on out.
I’m so glad to have cut into some of my fabric stash to create this quilt. I will definitely be doing this again. In fact, any scraps that happen to meet the 10″ x 10″ requirement might go into their own special “Future Disappearing 9-patch Ziploc.” That is the official organizational method I use: Ziploc. Fancy, right?
Using my HandiQuilter Avante 18, I stitched meandered stars all over the design. When its washed, it will have some great shrinkle! Do you know shrinkle? When the quilt shrinks a tiny bit in the was and comes out all crinkley = shrinkle.
I hope you give the Disappearing 9-Patch with Layer Cakes pattern a try. It is every bit as easy as the popular Disappearing 9-patch patterns all over Pinterest. The only difference is you sew a bit less and are done a bit faster. It is excellent for a quick gift!
If you are looking for fun precut 10″ squares, check out Craftsy. They have loads of options from which to choose. Craftsy is even offering this pattern in a quilt kit, which features Lily and Loom precut squares and coordinating background fabric yardage.
This blog contains affiliate links.
This fun Disappearing 9-Patch quilt is made using 10″ precut squares (aka LAYER CAKES)! The quilt features Lily & Loom, new fabric by Boundless, which is releasing on Craftsy.
The layer cake features 42 precut 10″ squares. The whole pack is youthful and bright. Get your fabric bundle here.
Using the Disappearing 9-Patch with Layer Cakes tutorial, I was able to make the quilt top in an afternoon. The pieces/units are HUGE.
And of course, I chain pieced everything, even the binding pieces. I tend to make the binding first so I don’t accidentally use the fabric in the quilt.
This quick cutting tool, The Cutting Gizmo, is amazing. I have mentioned it before. I received the cutter for Christmas and am not sure how I quilted for 20+ years without it.
Cut, cut, cut and the chain pieced units were read to stitch.
See how easily the quilt goes together on the sewing tutorial.
I opted to stitch a quick all-over swirl design on my HandiQuilter Avante 18″.
Lastly, I just needed to apply binding. I did that by machine, too, making this quilt incredibly fast to stitch. Volia! Finitio!
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The first San Antonio Modern Quilt Guild (SAMQG) Mini Quilt Auction is fast approaching and this fantastic For Fox Sake may be up for bidding. I thought it might be fun to create this cheeky little rascal for the mix, if space allows. The finished project is 16″ x 16″.
This quilt came together pretty late one evening. I pretty much never work on things when I’m tired, but I just kept cutting, stitching, ironing, and cutting. But, I was pretty tired, so I didn’t snap a single progress picture.
The 4 is improvisationally pieced from blue scraps in the style of Word Play Quilts by Tonya Ricucci. It and the mixed white fabric background are the only pieced spots.
The “sake” is my own handwriting. I wrote the word on cardstock then fattened up each letter. After cutting out the word, I was able to trace it onto Heat’n Bond fusible adhesive. I applied the “sake” last with raw-edge applique techniques.
Now, the cute little fox is a creation of mixed cartoon fox styles from the internet. I made him up as I was cutting each section. The fox is raw-edge fusible applique. Since he’s finished, I thought I’d trace the fox in Adobe Illustrator to be able to share a downloadable pdf with you! You’ll have to play with the size since this guy is only 8-1/2″ wide. Click on the image and a pdf should open.
The mini quilt auction hangs in a local quilt shop for almost two weeks before the silent auction on May 11th.
I’m crazy for this platinum satin whole cloth quilt! It is named Platinum Garden and started out as a wild experiment. A 60″ x 60″ quilting adventure! What I wanted was one of those amazing silk wholecloth quilts with the puffy and fantastic wool battings. Upon further inspection – YIKES – silk is almost $30/yard and wool batting isn’t for the faint of heart. (I couldn’t commit at those prices.) Since this was to be a test, I went with polyester, “platinum” color satin charmeuse and high-loft polyester batting. To top it off, I actually used a bed sheet (50/50% poly cotton) from Walmart as the backing! Pretty crazy, right?
As you may know, I’m enjoying a quilting series of whole cloth quilts, like the one in this wholecloth post and this wholecloth post. As described in those previous adventures, I start with a linear quadrant design like this one:
Print the quadrant once, tape it together, and trace it onto the wholecloth four times, or simply print it four times. I opted to just print the full-size quadrant once. Note: This quadrant design is not available for free full-size download. If you’d like to download a quadrant and give it a try, please visit these two posts: wholecloth post and wholecloth post.
Since I was using slippery & shifty satin, I decided to use dressmaker’s carbon tracing papers to transfer the design to the quilt’s surface.
Of course, I started in right away on the quilting.
Some feathers here. Some lines there.
A few wishbones in the corners.
Then I realized this quilt was WAY too big and to slippery to roll back and forth to work in a symmetrical quilting fashion. Instead, I decided to draw directly on my printed quadrant to serve as a road map for what I was going to quilt when I needed to replicate the top half of the quilt, on the bottom half. I pinned it above my quilt frame as a reference. (I’m going to have lots of holes to patch on that wall if we ever move!)
As I would stitch an area, I’d run over to the quadrant and doodle out what I just did. I don’t want you to think I actually, really planned something. Ha. You can see the cheap bed sheet backing in the photo below, too.
Wowsa. It is coming along. For some reason, those flower petals in the middle gave me fits thinking of how to fill them.
When in doubt, add more feathers! That’s gonna be my new rule. You can really see the PINK Glide thread in this picture, above.
Like the other quilts I’ve made in this design series, each time the quilt comes off the frame there’s a whole “Holy Quilting, Batman! I cannot believe I made that!” moment. It really is a neat way to trick yourself. Simply isolate a shape in the design, quilt it, and make it symmetrical. Who knows what your quilt will look like in the end? Everyone loves surprises.
I thought the satin would be far too difficult to apply as a traditional quilt binding. My options were apply lightweight interfacing to it as you would in apparel sewing, OR simple add a facing to the whole quilt and skip the traditional binding all together. I went with the latter. Would you like to see some close-up shots of the quilting?
And a couple outdoorsy shots with overcast lighting.
Is it perfect? Nope.
Do I love it far more than I should? Absolutely!
The experiment is confirmed. That totally worked. Now, to start saving my pennies for the silk and wool.
The first-ever San Antonio Modern Quilt Guild (SAMQG) Mini Quilt Auction fundraiser is fast approaching! My general plan was to make a satin, wholecloth butterfly. You’ll see… that didn’t quite happen.
The auction rules are to create a 16″ x 16″ mini quilt. The quilts will hang at a local quilt shop, Sew Special, and will be in a silent auction which ends on May 11. Very exciting. It will be a mini show and fundraiser for our group.
After marking three 16″ squares, a 20″ x 60″ piece of polyester satin is loaded onto my HandiQuilter frame. I started with a practice piece to warm up my arms. (Remember, I’m aiming to make a butterfly….)
I LOVE how the heart turned out! It is quilted with Pink Glide thread.
Ok, that was fun. Since I had three areas marked off, I went ahead and practiced the graffiti quilting all over the second mini quilt space.
I switched to NEON Green Glide thread. WOWSA. This stuff is day-glo for sure. The black light looks really cool, right?
Lastly, one square remains. Do I try to make a symmetrical butterfly or try to make an improved heart? Well…… I went NEON Green heart.
I ended up taking the whole piece off the frame, squaring up the designs, and binding them all. Here’s how all three mini quilts turned out.
Pink Graffiti Quilting Heart
And a side view for some fantastic quilty-shadows:
Green Graffiti Quilting Heart
And another side view of the mini quilt:
Random Green Graffiti Quilting
The side view:
And a close-up just for fun:
The butterfly concept didn’t make it. (YET!)
For now, I just have to decide which quilt to submit to the auction!!! Cast your votes in the comments.
My blog has been a bit quieter in 2017. Sorry about that! I have a really good reason, I promise. I’m working on a big project. I thought I’d show you some frustratingly-vague photos until I can share more details.
I’m working with a whole handful of quilters. A HUGE thank you to all the folks who are working away on this little idea I have. You guys are making it all possible!!!
And I’m working with generous companies!
And I’m making great progress as the days go on.
Quilt a bit. Take some notes. Quilt a bit more. Make some more notes. Snap a few photos. Zoom in on a few spots. Take some more notes. Try to make complete sentences. Quilt a bit more. That is pretty much my process right now. Phew. It is a blast!
I’ll still posts sewing projects when I can, but know I’m working really hard to bring you something really really cool. I’ll be sure to share more details as they unfold!
Be great today!
Grumpy Cat Quilt
Yes, you read that right. It is a Grumpy Cat Quilt. The San Antonio Modern Quilt Guild has a Pop Culture Sewing Bee: everything from Pusheen to Zelda, from Comic-Con to Memes and more! I chose Grumpy Cat as my project for the December meeting.
I do not have a pattern for the Gato Gru??n, but here’s how I made him:
First, you’ll need an image. I did a google search for “Grumpy Cat Cartoon” thinking the colors and shapes would already be broken down into easy, usable areas. That worked.
- Save the image
- Using software, scale the image to the size you want. (I assume you could do this in MS Office/Word, but I used Illustrator.)
- Print the image using the “tile large pages” or “poster” option. My finished piece is about 18″ x 24″.
- Tape the image back together.
You might find it helpful to outline the shape edges with sharpie. I tried, but the sharpie I was using was on its way out.
I taped it to a window (to act as a light board) and traced the outlines of the shapes onto Heat’n Bond fusible web.
Label the pieces before you cut them out! If you are making a portrait or image using this method, be advised that the final image will be “flipped” from what you printed. (You can flip the image on the computer before you print, if it isn’t symmetrical – like letters or recognizable places.)
Cut out the wacky little heat’n bond shapes and fuse them to the wrong-side of your project fabrics.
Now arrange the shapes, using the original printed image as a guide.
I worked in little sections. If I had something in the wrong place, I wouldn’t screw up the whole project with one press.
- Right-side of the Grumpy Cat face
- Left-side of Grumpy Cat face
- Left ear
- Right ear
- Tail and body shadows
- LAST- eyes. I was nervous about really messing those up. As Melissa Averinos says, the eyes are the most important part of the portrait.
Hey, are those cheese-y pigs in a blanket on my plate in the lower right corner (above)? Why, yes they are! You cannot have a sewing bee without food, of course.
Once everything is fused, it is time to think about quilting and think about the final use of the quilt. Sure, I probably should have thought about the end-use earlier, but you know… sometimes that doesn’t happen.
For my project, I plan to wrap it around a canvas and hang it on a wall. For this reason, I didn’t have to be too meticulous with the quilting as it will never be washed.
I did use a grey thread to trace around the fused shapes with stitching lines.
Instead of trying to work with a thin piece of black or dark grey fabric to outline his Grumpy Cat body, I decided I’d add those lines with thread, too. I drew them out with water soluble pen, and I traced over these areas 4-6 times with free motion quilting lines.
My last step will be to stretch the small quilt around canvas stretcher-bars. I’ll be using my staple gun and basic “upholstered headboard” techniques to get this little guy wrapped.
This just in!!! I found a 16″ x 20″ canvas at the thrift store and it worked perfectly for this project.
And the fantasticly Grumpy Cat quilt is now greeting folks in my front entry. Merry Christmas to me.
Graffiti Quilting on my Dream Strip Quilt
Graffiti quilting was the plan for this old old old unfinished object, UFO, quilt. The larger solid stripes were perfect to showcase designs and the printed stripes provided a great practice area for other ideas.
I used a facing technique to prepare the edges of all the letters before appliqueing them by machine. You can find more details about the technique which is featured in Hexagons Made Easy. Turns out the method is great for any shape!
Here’s a closer look at the quilting around the word “dream.”
The aquamarine shows up great on the navy blue fabric! It isn’t wildly distracting, but you can definitely see all the graffiti quilting lines.
The narrower borders of the quilt are filled with border designs. In the above picture you can see a small wishbone quilting design.
This quilt was so fun to finish! It isn’t my oldest UFO, but it was one I recently re-discovered.
If you need any of your quilts finished, please check out my longarm quilting service page: ReannaLilyQuilts.com
Mini Quilt Transformed into Zip Top Bag
Are you addicted to internet mini quilt swaps? Are you running out of wall space? I have a cure for you.
This above mini was part of a Heartbeat Table Runner pattern by Nancy Zieman.
Turn your mini quilt into a zippered bag with a couple easy steps. The best part: It doesn’t matter what size your mini quilt is!
You’ll need a zipper roughly the same length or slightly longer than the short side of your mini quilt. Plastic, non-separating zippers work best.
If your zipper is shorter than your mini’s edge, you may want to sew zipper tabs to each end. Basically, you will be covering the zipper ends with fabric. Craftsy has a tutorial for zipper tab ends.
My zipper is almost the exact size as my table runner. (It is the “wrong” kind of zipper. This one, from my stash, is a separating zip like you’d use in a jacket. I stitched a zigzag tack stitch over the teeth to keep the zipper from fully coming apart.)
Pin the right side of the zipper to the wrong side of the quilt at the binding. The zipper tape should extend past the binding a small amount.
I pin parallel to the zipper tape to keep things straight.
Start stitching right inside the side binding. Working from the wrong side, edge-stitch along the zipper tape. The stitching line should fall right on the edge of the binding, when looking at it from the front. The binding itself will create a sort of lip around the zipper. (below)
Unzip the zipper and apply to the opposite side. Pretend you are making a tube at this point, if that helps. Make sure the zipper’s right side is touching the quilt’s wrong side. See the “twist” on the lower right of the photo below?
The zipper is in place, and the mini quilt looks like a tube. I’m going to leave my zipper ends exposed and not covered with fabric tabs.
At this point you have a few bag options:
If you like this flat pouch style, you can simply stitch the right and left sides of the bag. Do this by lining up the right and left bindings, and sew along the binding’s stitching line or in-the-ditch. If I opted for this method, I would simply cut off the excess zipper tape as the final step.
Option two is the standing bag.
- To make a standing bag, first close the zipper.
- Flatten the bag with the zipper as one folded edge and the bag bottom as the other folded edge.
- Stitch along the right and left seams either on the binding or in-the-ditch next to the binding.
- Next, turn the bag inside out.
- Match the side seam with the bottom fold. Open the two bound edges flat.
- Pin a triangle shape where the side seam and bottom folds meet.
- Sew across the triangle. This will create the width of the bag’s bottom. The size of the triangle will vary related to the size of your mini. For my bag, my triangles were about 1-1/2″ from seam line to point.
- Cut the excess triangle fabric 1/4″ past the stitching line.
- Use a zigzag stitch or serger to finish this interior cut edge. Sew slowly; there’s a great deal of bulk at the side seam line.
- Repeat the triangle treatment for both lower corners of the bag.
- Turn the bag right-side out.
- This is how the lower corner should look:
- And a peek inside:
Yep. My mini quilt turned zip top bag is ready to go!
I have seen the Cross?and Plus?Quilt everywhere thanks to the great tutorial on Amy’s Badskirt Blog.She credits the block design to Nancy Cabot. I loved the block, but would like to make it HUGE. Thanks to EQ7 and a bit of math, it totally worked out.
Each of these quilt blocks finishes at 15″ square. That is a BIG block. With only 30 blocks, the quilt measures 75″ x 90″. Since this quilt uses fat quarters, it will definitely still look scrappy, even though it is mega-giant.
Here’s how I made it:
30 Fat Quarters* (I used Red and Blue. Choose 15 Fat Quarters from one color family and 15 from the other.)
—OR 3-1/4 yards color 1 (red) and 3-1/4 yards color (blue)
3 yards?white fabric
*A fat quarter is a precut fabric piece measuring 18″ x 22″.
For this quilt- one fat quarter will be one block’s worth of pieces. If you’d like a 4 block x 6 block quilt, use 24 fat quarters instead of 30.
From each colored fat quarter cut the following:
- Four 6-1/2″ squares
- Two 3-1/2″ squares
- One rectangle 3-1/2″ x 9-1/2″
- Two rectangles 2-1/4″ x width (for binding) NOTE: Only cut binding from nine fat quarters. The rest will be extra/scrap fabric.
Once the 6-1/2″ squares are cut, remove two triangle corners using this template and rotary cutting tools.
(Grab the template pdf here.)
You will need a grand total of:
- 120 squares 6-1/2″ x 6-1/2″ (then cut to fit the template)
- 30 rectangles 3-1/2″ x 9-1/2″
- 60 squares 3-1/2″ x 3-1/2″
- 9 pieces cut 2-1/4″ x width of fabric (for binding)
From the white yardage cut:
- 120 squares measuring 3-1/2″ x 3-1/2″
- 120 squares measuring 3-7/8″ x 3-7/8″ !!! Cut these squares in half on the diagonal to yield 240 triangles.
Each block is made up of three basic units:
Two double square blocks which measure 3-1/2″ x 6-1/2″
One long center unit measuring 3-1/2″ x 15-1/2″
Four 6-1/2″ x 6-1/2″ squares
Assemble the Units
Use a 1/4″ seam allowance on all seams for this project.
I worked in a?sewing?assembly line style and jammed this big double/queen size quilt out in a weekend.
First, I sorted my cut pieces by unit. I started with the double square units.
Using my quarter inch presser foot and my Seamingly Accurate Seam Guide, I stitched all these pieces at once. Line the edge of the fabric up with the 1/4″ mark on the seam guide to keep perfect seam allowances. I kept feeding pairs?into the machine, one after another.
Clip the threads between each unit?and press towards the darker fabric.
The long rectangle unit is assembled in the same fashion.
Next, I stitched the 6-1/2″ square units. I did not do the popular stitch-and-flip method to sew these blocks. My reasoning: Since the block is so big, the stitch-and-flip method would?be a bit wasteful. I’m already saving all the removed colored triangles in a ziploc baggie.
Matching right sides, lay the triangle on the diagonal cut of the colored block. Notice the points of the white?triangle are longer than colored block. Let each point extend 1/4″ at the start and stop of that seam.
the Seamingly Accurate Seam Guide?will help keep your triangles equidistant and straight. The “V” where the two fabrics are off-set will be inline with the needle line and the edge of the fabric will be at the 1/4″ mark. This is how you’ll know the triangle is positioned correctly.
The off-set is also shown in this Better Binding tutorial on Youtube, if you want to see it in action.
Be careful not to stretch this seam as you stitch; it is a bias cut.
I pieced these in an assembly line, too. Phew. I was a quiltin’ maniac this weekend.
Press the seam allowances towards the white triangles.
Assemble the Block
This is the block I’m aiming for:
One color family would be the X and the other color family would be the + (plus) in each block. I made a test block first to see if my mega-assembly-method would work. 15 red X’s and 15 blue X’s.
Lay the units in their places on my work surface.
Join the double square units to the 6-1/2″ square units on the right and left sides. Press the seam allowances towards the double squares.
Next, join the right and left sides to that long center rectangle. Press seam allowances towards the long rectangle.
Yep. That worked. You know what that means??? Assembly time!
I seriously laid out the remaining block units in stacks, on the work surface just as I did for the first block.
I stitched all of one seam type, pressed, and re-positioned it back onto the work surface. Boom. Next seam. It was really really fast. I was working in 29-seam increments. I made one block, right? So that means each stack pictured above has 29 pieces. Sew 29 seams, press that unit, reposition on the work surface, and sew the next 29 seams. Hum. If you wanted to go math-crazy, it is only 174 seams. =)
Assembling the Top
Since I knew my quilt would be 5 blocks by 6 blocks, alternating blue and red, I didn’t even lay out my design. I took the math approach here, too.
First– Remove three red X blocks and three blue X blocks. Set these aside as they will make up the fifth column at the end.
Second– Grab a red X and blue X, match right sides and sew these two together. Make sure to keep the long center rectangles oriented vertically (Unless that isn’t important- it totally doesn’t have to be important.) Sew 12 pairs. Easy!
Third – Sew the pairs of pairs together, making sure to sew one red to one blue. This will create the six rows.
Fourth– Add in those blocks set aside in the first step. Stitch those dudes to the end of each of the six rows.
Fifth- The homestretch!! All you do now is alternate the rows to join them together. By this, I mean, odd number rows start on red and even number rows start on blue. Join 1 & 2. Join 3 & 4. Join 5 & 6. Now you only have 2 seams to go!
Quilt. This speedy quilt was finished with a meandered star design. Yes, it is hard to see.
Bind. I opted to not use the scrappy binding, but rather use a piece of mottled blue fabric for the entire binding.